This is Belfast's principle museum and occupies an old Georgian building which has been extended into a modernist space at the rear, not unlike the Sainsbury's wing of the National Gallery in London. Each floor covers a different area of interest, including the geology of the region, a series of displays dedicated to the development of Belfast from the 16th century through to the present day, and the top two floors are given over to art drawn from the City's collection.
It's certainly a beautiful space, with the modern extension featuring a large atrium extending up through the various floors, but I did find it a bit sparse. For example, the historical section was mostly panels of text illustrated with the occasional artifact and, in the area of that floor dedicated to the Troubles, it's panels of text and black and white photographs only which give a fairly brief timeline of events. I suppose that they were concerned about not being seen to favour one particular group in the display, but as a consequence it lacks any colour - literally. In my view, visitors to Belfast who have a real interest in the issues and want some deeper insight would be better served by taking one of the Troubles Taxi Tours and then paying a visit to the Irish Republican History Museum and the Shankill Road equivalent.
The Ulster Museum isn't the only treasure to be found in the Botanical Gardens however. I also took some time to walk around the Palm House and also visited the Tropical Ravine, a hothouse building which houses huge tropical trees and ferns, glistening with moisture. It's well worth your time wandering around these late Victorian wonders which some might consider to be more inspiring than the museum just up the hill!
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| From Ulster Museum and the Tropical Houses May 2010 |
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