So I was in Poland again this weekend, specifically in the city of Wroclaw (pronounced Vrot-swaff). Historically, its typical of cities in that region in that its spent its existence in several different countries, only becoming part of Poland after 1945 before which it had been part of Germany and known as Breslaw. The Wikipedia link above can tell you more about that, and the awful things that happened here back in those troubled days, but let me tell you what I found in the 21st century city…
This place is a little different to the Polish cities I’ve visited before – we saw five theatres but there were probably more, and there are almost as many cathedrals to the various branches of the Christian faith that hold sway her. But this really is a staunchly Catholic place – when we were at the largest religious building, the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St John the Baptist (which sits on its own island in the middle of the Odra river, called the Ostrow Tumsk) I was surprised to see that a couple of dodgy looking local youths who like us, had been up in the lift to the top of the Cathedral to take in the sights, turn towards the altar and genuflect as soon as we stepped out of the doors. Appearances can be deceiving…
There were more than enough cultural sights and sounds to keep us occupied for two days, even though we never stepped into any of the City’s museums. From the massive Central square that must have been the size of six football pitches at least with its fairytale town hall at the centre, the massive baroque edifice of the main University buildings to the frankly sinister brutalism of the Centenary Hall or the main Police station it was all absolutely breathtaking (although for the latter two buildings breathtaking in a ‘hard punch to the gut’ way…)
The food really was excellent too, and frankly I’m a bit picky when it comes to eating out – I’m always prepared to complain if the food or service are not up to scratch. No such worries in this city – places that I can heartily recommend are the pancake house at ulika Ruska 58/59, ‘Pastelowa‘, the Emperor’s restaurant, ‘Cesarsko Krolewska‘ at Rynek 19 and of course the City’s most famous restaurant, the Polish camelot-themed (I’m not quite kidding!) ‘Piwnica Swidnika‘, hidden under the Town Hall, again in the Rynek, the main square. The food in there was served with the care that you’d find in a French restaurant but in good, hearty portions. We were convinced that the odd threesome we were sat next to on Saturday evening (ask me about that one, I dare you) had a whole pig for their main course!
With three huge shopping centres too, including the Galeria Dominikanska in the centre of town and the captivating 1920s central market hall and lots of boutiques, antique shops and the like this place really does have it all. The ‘alternative’ scene is a bit on the small side for such a big city though – its only shortcoming I guess!
By the way if Eastern Europe takes your fancy I’d take the opportunity to check if there’s an ‘In Your Pocket‘ guide to your destination. It’s the frankest tourist guide out there, its generally free, and it tells you just about everything you need to know. I don’t leave the country without one to be absolutely honest 😉 Of course you can find the copious amount of pictures I took here if you want to take a good look at the city.
From Wroclaw September 2008 |